Room 322: Japanese Denim 101 – Evsiu
Posted on 13 December 2008
A lot of people do not understand why some denim is $30, while other denim is $300, but today I am going to explain the definition of high quality denim. People think that you are just paying for a “label” when you drop that high dollar for jeans, but usually you are paying for the quality that is associated with the brand.
In this small writeup am going to break down this pair of Evisu Heritage raw indigo denim and actually explain why a pair of japanese denim goes for a premium price.
What makes Japanese denim different then North American denim is how it is made and designed. Each pair of jeans are made from 29′ inch shutter looms, rather then present day 60′ inch shutter projectile looms. This means, the cross threat looms move horizontally during the weaving process together, while modern looms are shot individually. The end result is in a frayed edge, instead of a clean cut from the shuttle loom.
Since the fabric used on the 29′ loom machine is so narrow, Japanese designers need roughly three yards to make a single pair of jeans. The traditional method (used over 50 years ago) entailed having a straight outside seam cut right up to the selvedge. When you inspect the reverse side of the jeans, you will see two selvedge edges of the denim skillfully stitched together (also inside the coin pocket).
Depending on brand/style of Japanese denim each are dyed by using a loop dying machine. These are very rare machines and work by feeding a rope of cotton yarn through containers of indigo dye. After a period of drying the yarn returns back for a next dipping. All Evisu denim has a minimum of 16 dips, but some jeans go through as many as 30 dips. This creates a deep blue color (sometimes people mistake it for black).
This style of Evisu denim features their popular logo (Evisu Seagull) hand painted on each denim. You can the strokes from the brush on the back pockets of each denim.
Here is a short clip of a pair of Evisu jeans being hand painted.
Evisu does not skip out when it comes too detail. From their tags to studs each pair of denim are reproduced at the highest quality without skipping out on detail, or quality.
This seal is found inside the denim on the pocket flaps. This is one of the many small detail that Evisu incorporates to insure end users are receiving authentic Evisu denim.
Indigo genes are partially transferable, due to the unwashed treatment. Denim made on shuttle looms are naturally irregular, and these irregularities find their way out as the denim fade, making every pair unique to its wearer. Overtime you will build your own custom fade that will make your pair of Japanese denim become 1 of 1 due to the way you rock them. One thing to note is since these jeans are made out of 100% cotton and are raw denim they will shrink when washed (1/2 – 1 inch waist and up to 3 inches length).
These are my first pair of Japanese denim and I can honestly say my most comfortable pair of jeans I own. After a few months I will post pics on how they fade and show everyone what a pair of bobbyt’s Evisu denim (codename B.E.D) look like.
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